Magazine
Among the stories in Magazine this week: a Moravian man visits five Slavkovs in three days on a wooden, pedal-less precursor to the bicycle; a museum dedicated to a film character who never was draws Czechs and Slovaks but confuses foreign visitors; the country's most famous bus is saved from the scrapheap; and an unusual hobby - renovating an old military fortress.
Photo: www.ivankrivanek.com
Slavkov is the Czech name for Austerlitz, scene of the Battle of the Three
Emperors, in which Napoleon scored a famous victory over the Austrian and
Russian armies on December 2, 1805. But that is just one of a number of
Slavkovs in Moravia and Silesia. Last weekend cycling enthusiast Ivan
Krivanek visited five Slavkovs in the two provinces, setting off from
Slavkov by Opava on Friday morning and arriving at his home at Slavkov by
Brno on Sunday evening. He had covered 250 kilometres. That may not seem
all that remarkable, until you learn that Mr Krivanek made the journey on
a copy of a contraption known as a Draisine, hobby horse or pushbike; it
preceded the modern bicycle and even the penny farthing and is notable for
not having pedals. To operate a Draisine you sit astride a wooden frame
supported by two in-line wheels and push the vehicle along with your feet
while steering the front wheel. Which makes Ivan Krivanek's 250-kilometre
journey through five Slavkovs remarkable indeed.
Marecku, podejte mi pero
A key element of Czech humour is "recese", which dictionaries
rather unhelpfully translate as mischief-making or practical joking. In
reality it usually involves the absurd - specifically doing absurd things.
A good example of this was the opening of a museum in the town of Humpolec
which is dedicated not only to somebody who never existed, but to a
character in a film who is never seen.
Hlinikarium, photo: www.infohumpolec.cz
The 1976 movie "Marecku,
podejte mi pero" ("Marecek, Hand me a Pen") is one of the
most popular Czech comedies. And one of its best loved lines is
"Hlinik se odstehoval do Humpolce" ("Hlinik has moved to
Humpolec"), explaining his absence. Last September the town opened a
Hlinikarium - a museum dedicated to Hlinik - which has so far been visited
by 3,000 Czechs and Slovaks. Indeed, Slovak TV has made a special programme
about it. But officials say foreign tourists don't seem to get the concept,
even when it is explained to them. They just don't understand Czech
"recese". (By the way the writers of "Marecku, podejte mi
pero" have plenty of experience of this kind of humour: Zdenek Sverak
and Ladislav Smoljak also created the popular Zelig-like character Jara
Cimrman).
Bretschneider's Ear
Humpolec is in Vysocina, an area which straddles the border between
Bohemia and Moravia. And it is not the only town in Vysocina which can
boast curiosities. Pelhrimov, as regular listeners may know, is home to a
museum of records and curiosities. It even calls itself the town of
records and hosts a festival on that theme every June - last year it was
attended by over 15,000 people. Meanwhile, Tri Studne (Three Wells), with
a population of only a hundred, says it has the smallest square in the
European Union. Elsewhere in Vysocina,
Frysava pod Zakovou horou has a plaque to a local postman called Rudolf Smolek.
He is said to have covered almost 200,000 kilometres delivering the post by
foot, by bike and even on skis in a 42-year career which began in 1933. And
Lipnice nad Sazavou has a monument to spying or bugging. It is an unusual
monument - carved onto the walls of a former granite quarry. So far it
features Bretschneider's Ear (after the secret policeman who listened in
on the Good Soldier Svejk in a Prague pub) and the Mouth of Truth. There
are plans to add Golden Eyes.
Today former prime minister Milos Zeman is in retirement (and living in
the country near Nove Veseli in Vysocina, as it happens). But a decade
ago, before he reached the top of the political heap, Mr Zeman was busy
building the Social Democratic Party into one of the major forces in Czech
politics. One way he did this was by criss-crossing the country canvassing
on a bus whose nickname Zemak was based on his surname. The coach itself
was close to the scrapheap recently, until a farmers co-operative in
Hostice u Volyne decided to turn it into an attraction. The village is
famous as the setting for a series of broad comedy movies entitled
"Slunce, seno..." ("Sun, hay...") and the farmers have
renamed the bus Film Zemak and sent it around the region to promote their
locality. The Zemak, which is over 20 years old, has been fitted with
loudspeakers once again, though instead of Social Democrat slogans, those
who it passes will hear melodies from the popular film series. The bus is
covered in images from the films and bears the slogan "JZD Hostice is
the best co-operative in the region".
One popular image of fire fighters in the UK is of them taking a cat down
from a tree, giving huge relief to the moggy's elderly owner. But Czech
fire officers recently had a rather different non-fire operation, when
they were called to remove four stork eggs from a nest in a 30-metre high
chimney at a disused distillery in Stahlavy near Plzen. While fending off
an attack from another stork, the nest's original male occupant fell and
was badly injured, breaking his beak. His female partner would not have
been able to protect and feed her offspring alone, so the fire brigade
were called in.
Photo: CTK
Monday, April 30, was carodejnice (witch-burning night) here in the Czech
Republic, with bonfires lit in towns and villages around the country. Most
of those bonfires were of the common or garden variety (and some would even
have been in people's gardens). But local people in Kozojedy on the
outskirts of Prague are a bit more ambitious. They built a 20-metre high
"burning man" style bonfire on Monday, carrying on a tradition
of 40 years. Preparations for the giant bonfire took 10 days and even
involved the use of a crane.
Krelov fort, photo: www.olomouc-travel.cz
Not satisfied with regular hobbies like collecting or gardening,
37-year-old Martin Daniel from Krelov near Olomouc decided to take on a
somewhat bigger project. After being impressed by old military
fortifications during a holiday in France, Daniel decided to buy the ruins
of a fort in his hometown from the Czech Army and set about renovating it.
Work hasn't been completed yet, but when it is the fortifications are set
to get a permanent exhibition, and a roadside pub. And after all that work
Martin Daniel will certainly deserve a nice cold beer.






